Nassau Downtown
History, street food, and the real pulse of Bahamian life
Bay Street runs along Nassau's waterfront and is the city's commercial spine. The Queen's Staircase, cut into limestone by enslaved workers in the 1790s, is a 10-minute walk east from the western end of Bay Street. Junkanoo Beach, free and public, sits 5 minutes west along Bay Street. The straw market is a 3-minute walk from the cruise ship piers on Prince George Wharf. For local food, head to Arawak Cay fish fry, 10 minutes west on West Bay Street, where cracked conch and Sky Juice come from vendors who have been there for decades. Guesthouses around Shirley Street cost half what Cable Beach charges. Avoid the area east of Baillou Hill Road after dark. Nassau has real poverty and the tourist zone is smaller than it looks on a map. But this is where you get the actual Bahamas: Junkanoo costumes in shop windows, local sloops in the harbor, conch salad made in front of you.
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