Sultanahmet
History on your doorstep, tourist traps everywhere else
Sultanahmet is Istanbul's undisputed history core, and it deserves the hype for exactly two nights. Stay on Adliye Sokak or Peykhane Caddesi and you're 2 minutes from Hagia Sophia, 8 minutes from Topkapi Palace, and 10 minutes from the Grand Bazaar on foot. The downside: this neighborhood shuts down early and most restaurants along Divan Yolu Caddesi are tourist traps charging double for mediocre food. Skip them. The real spots are small meyhanes tucked behind the Basilica Cistern on Yerebatan Caddesi. Mornings here are spectacular before tour groups flood in around 9am. By noon, every lane near the Blue Mosque is packed. Eminonu ferry terminal is a 15-minute walk north, connecting you fast to Kadikoy on the Asian side. Perfect base for your first two nights. After that, move somewhere with better food and a real local scene.
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