Le Panier
Marseille's oldest quarter, all stairs and pastel walls
Le Panier sits on the hill north of the Vieux-Port and feels nothing like the rest of the city. Climb Rue du Panier or Rue des Cordelles and you hit tiny squares like Place de Lenche, where locals drink pastis at 6pm. La Vieille Charite, a 17th-century hospice, anchors the neighborhood with two museums and a quiet courtyard. Mornings start at La Boite a Sardine for coffee on Rue du Petit Puits. Streets are too steep for cars in places, so drag your suitcase or book a hotel at the bottom near Place de Lorette. Safer than its reputation suggests, but watch your bag at night.
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