Shinjuku
The default choice. There's a reason everyone stays here.
Shinjuku Station handles roughly 3.5 million passengers daily, making it the busiest station on earth. That sounds chaotic, and parts of it genuinely are. But it also means you can reach virtually any corner of Tokyo without a transfer. The west exit leads into a canyon of 40-story business hotels and the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, whose free observatory on the 45th floor gives a panoramic city view on clear days and a Mt. Fuji silhouette in winter. The east exit opens directly into Kabukicho, Tokyo's largest entertainment district, where ten-story host clubs and karaoke towers sit next to convenience stores open around the clock. Six alleys make up Golden Gai, crammed with over 200 bars seating eight to twelve people each. The bars charge no cover, pour cheap drinks, and the owners range from retired photographers to former punk musicians. On weekends after 9pm, it is genuinely difficult to walk through. Omoide Yokocho, known locally as Memory Lane or Piss Alley, runs under the train tracks west of the east exit and has around 20 yakitori stalls that have been there since the 1940s. Smoke hangs permanently in the air. Seats are communal at long wooden counters. Order the tsukune (chicken meatballs) and the negima (chicken and leek skewers). Walk 8 minutes south from the east exit along Shinjuku-dori and you hit Shinjuku Gyoen, one of Tokyo's best parks, with a 200-yen entry fee and a separate greenhouse section. Budget options cluster near the east exit on Yasukuni-dori. Mid-range hotels line Nishi-Shinjuku (west side) and offer skyline views from higher floors. The area never fully sleeps, so light sleepers should request a room above the 10th floor and away from street-facing walls. Shinjuku is also the main departure point for long-distance highway buses to Hakone, Mt. Fuji, and Kawaguchiko, departing from Busta Shinjuku terminal attached to the south exit. Staying here saves you the 30-minute transfer that most other neighborhoods require for those day trips.
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