The best hotels in Trinidad and Tobago

Depends what you want. Port of Spain for Carnival, soca music, and the most vibrant food scene in the Caribbean, think Maracas Bay shark and bake, doubles on Charlotte Street, rum bars in St. James. Tobago for beaches: Pigeon Point and Store Bay are both within 5 minutes of Crown Point airport. Most visitors do 3 nights Trinidad, 4 nights Tobago. Flying between them costs around TTD 400 return.

January to May. Carnival hits in February or March and rates jump 40 percent in Port of Spain, but it is worth it. April and May are quieter and cheaper. The dry season brings consistent 28 to 32 degrees Celsius. June through November is hurricane season, though Trinidad sits south of the main belt and takes fewer direct hits than islands further north.

More expensive than you might expect. Budget guesthouses in Port of Spain start at $80 per night. Mid-range hotels run $130 to $220. Tobago beach resorts push $250 to $400. Carnival week adds a 30 to 50 percent premium on top of that. Book at least 3 months ahead for Carnival.

St. Clair and Queen's Park Savannah for a mix of safety, access, and local atmosphere. You are walking distance from the Savannah jogging track, the Magnificent Seven mansions on Maraval Road, and the nightlife on Ariapita Avenue. Skip the areas immediately around Independence Square at night. Newtown and Woodbrook are also solid options, both have good restaurants within walking distance.

Crown Point for convenience, you are minutes from the airport and Store Bay beach. Pigeon Point is a 10-minute drive with calm turquoise water and a small entry fee. For something wilder, go north to Englishman's Bay or Castara, both take about 40 minutes from Crown Point but are far less crowded. No resort development on that north coast, just guesthouses.

Tobago is genuinely relaxed and safe. Trinidad requires more awareness, especially in Port of Spain. Stick to St. Clair, Woodbrook, and Newtown after dark. Avoid Laventille, Sea Lots, and East Port of Spain entirely. Taxis are cheap and reliable, about TTD 80 to 100 from the Savannah to most downtown spots. Never walk alone at night in unfamiliar areas.

Yes, but you need to go to the right place. Grande Riviere on Trinidad's north coast is one of the largest leatherback nesting beaches in the world. Season runs March through August, with peak activity in May and June. Organized night tours are run by the community from around 9pm and cost about TTD 150. Book through the Mount Plaisir Estate Hotel if you are staying there.

Two options. The 20-minute Caribbean Airlines flight costs around TTD 350 to 500 return and runs multiple times daily. The overnight ferry from Port of Spain takes 6 hours, costs about TTD 120 return, and is an experience in itself. Book ferry tickets well ahead during school holidays. The water taxi is another option, faster but capacity is limited.

Start with doubles, two bara flatbreads with curried channa and pepper sauce, sold at roadside stalls for about TTD 10. Maracas Bay's bake and shark is a pilgrimage. In Tobago, fresh fish on the beach at Castara village, caught that morning. Crab and dumpling from any local kitchen in Scarborough. Pelau, a one-pot rice dish with pigeon peas and meat, is the unofficial national dish and you will find it everywhere.

Among the best in the Caribbean. Speyside on the northeast coast sits near the Atlantic-Caribbean collision zone, which creates huge nutrient flows and big marine life. The Japanese Garden and Cathedral dive sites are legendary. Manta rays gather around Little Tobago island in large numbers, up to 20 or 30 at a time. Visibility regularly exceeds 30 meters. Several dive operators in Speyside and Crown Point charge around USD 50 to 70 per two-tank dive.

The biggest street party in the Caribbean. J'ouvert starts at 4am on Monday with paint, mud, and oil thrown on revelers dancing through the streets. Mas bands parade on Tuesday in elaborate costumes that cost USD 200 to 600. The main routes run through downtown Port of Spain and the Savannah stage hosts competitions. Hotels in Port of Spain sell out 6 months ahead. Book a hotel in St. Clair or Woodbrook and walk to the main events.

Trinidad has some of the best bird watching in the Western Hemisphere. Asa Wright Nature Centre in the Northern Range is 45 minutes from Port of Spain and has over 400 species on the property. The Caroni Bird Sanctuary tour at sunset is extraordinary, thousands of scarlet ibis returning to roost. Tobago has the oldest protected rainforest in the Western Hemisphere at Main Ridge Forest Reserve. Day trips cost around TTD 300 to 500 with a guide.